Theaterkunst Talk
NAKED WITHOUT COSTUME
The NAKED WITHOUT COSTUME initiative arose from a shared feeling among many costume designers that their artistic work often remains unseen. Despite their vital contribution to the impact of film, TV series and theatre productions, they frequently lack recognition and visibility. This exchange gave rise to an alliance that advocates for greater appreciation, better working conditions and an equal footing for costume design within the creative process. With a clearly formulated manifesto and initial public campaigns, the initiative aims to raise awareness of the importance of costume design in the long term.
We spoke to the initiators.
Copyright: Theaterkunst
Theaterkunst
NAKED WITHOUT COSTUME
How did the idea for NAKED WITHOUT COSTUME come about, and who are the people behind it?
The idea for NAKED WITHOUT COSTUME arose from a shared experience: the feeling of being invisible in one’s own artistic work. A group of like-minded costume designers – united by a passion for their craft and frustration at a lack of recognition – began to talk to one another. About productions where the costume design moves the audience but is barely mentioned. About premieres where other trades naturally take centre stage, whilst the costume designer remains in the shadows.
These conversations gave rise to an initiative. NAKED WITHOUT COSTUME brings to light what is often taken for granted: that costumes aren’t ‘just there’. That behind every piece of fabric lies an artistic decision, research and a particular perspective. The initiators see their work as a collective act: standing together for greater visibility, fair recognition and an equal place within the creative team.
You’ve written a manifesto for the costume design profession. What does it contain?
The NAKED WITHOUT COSTUME manifesto makes it clear: costume design is an artistic discipline in its own right. The entire department deserves fair working conditions, fair pay and genuine recognition. The initiative champions the visibility of costume designers and all other roles within the costume department – in credits, in the press, on juries and wherever decisions are made.
Furthermore, we call for a sustainable industry that is more diverse and inclusive, and which consistently prioritises sustainability in every respect. We call on film schools to offer dedicated courses for professional training and to establish costume departments at an early stage as integral parts of the core artistic team.
Our manifesto is a call for solidarity: for greater collaboration within the industry and a more conscious approach to our work – both within the sector and in the way it is perceived by the public.
You made your big debut at this year’s Berlinale. What other initiatives are you planning for the future?
The Berlinale was just the beginning. Our next major goal is the German Film Award. We want to make our presence felt there as NAKED WITHOUT COSTUME and send a clear message. Beyond that, we plan to bring the topic of costume design to a wider public: through panels, interventions, exhibitions and discussions. Formats that put our craft in the spotlight and spark discourse. And, of course, via our social media channels. We want to be present wherever film and television are discussed and decisions are made.
What is your greatest wish for the costume design profession?
We hope that every costume design and the work that goes into it is seen for what it is: a collaborative, creative, dramaturgical and highly complex endeavour, without which no character truly comes to life. Costume design should not be viewed merely as ‘clothing’, but as a central component of storytelling and character development, serving as a support or even the starting point for the actors’ performance, and thus an essential part of any narrative production.
We want fair working conditions for ourselves and our teams.
And along the way, NAKED WITHOUT COSTUME ideally fosters a strong, supportive network among all members of the costume department, who stand together to ensure their visibility and have fun working on joint initiatives.
Thank you very much for the interview!
Thank you very much, dear Theaterkunst team, for the interview and your support. It means a great deal to us that NAKED WITHOUT COSTUME is being given this platform and attention.
