Theaterkunst Talk
Kate Hawley
The work of New Zealand costume designer Kate Hawley can currently be seen in the remake of the classic film „Frankenstein“. We spoke to her about this production, her love of costume and the importance of her craft.
Kate Hawley comes from Wellington, New Zealand. After studying graphic design at the Wellington School of Design, she completed a Motley Theatre Design Course in London. She then worked in theatres and operas before becoming involved in film. Her costume design work includes productions such as Peter Jackson’s ‘The Lovely Bones’ and Guillermo Del Toro’s ‘The Hobbit’ and ‘Crimson Peak’. Films such as ‘Suicide Squad’ and ‘Mortal Engines’ also bear her signature.
She collaborated with our costume house on ‘Frankenstein’. The film, directed by Guillermo del Toro, was released on Netflix in November. It tells the story of Victor Frankenstein (Oscar Isaac), a brilliant but selfish scientist who creates a creature (Jacob Elordi) through a monstrous experiment, which ultimately spells disaster for both the creator and his tragic creation.
Copyright: Netflix (u0022Frankensteinu0022), Warner Bros. (u0022Suicide Squadu0022 u0026amp; u0022Der Hobbitu0022)
Theaterkunst
Kate Hawley
What particularly appealed to you about the Frankenstein project?
Guillermo was directing it!! And his screenplay was so richly layered and emotionally evocative. There was a weight to accepting the challenge of Frankenstein – in that all of us knew how important this project was to him. And it was BIG. And I also got to play with long term and much loved colleagues again.
Did you approach the costumes with historical accuracy or artistic freedom? What did you have to pay particular attention to with the costumes?
I always research in depth the historical reference , but that is a small part of what I do. I read the supporting literature, art history of the time, both geographical and emotional landscape, I might start with a moment within the script. But the driving force is my director’s vision – that of Guillermo.
Frankenstein is operatic in tone, a haunting melodrama. So while we kept silhouettes historical there was much freedom. I suppose you could describe it as Guillermo’s “fever dream of the period”. A Gothic fairytale.
Is there a central costume piece or look that embodies the essence of the film, or is there a costume from the film that you are particularly proud of?
Thats a tough one. I am not sure I can answer specifically, but I can say that I truly loved the process of building the world with my team. Creating fabrics and a language to reflect the imagery and tone that Guillermo was creating within the script, themes of mythology, religion, memory and nature untamed…
How did you get into costume design and what excites you about your job?
I grew up with a love of books – especially mythologies and fairy tales – and our home was suffused by opera. I think that childhood drew me towards costume design. I love world building and collaboration – I love the challenge to create the world, create the atmosphere and to answer to the “landscape” the characters exist within.
„Frankenstein” was your first time working with Theaterkunst. What was your impression of our house and our costumes?
A very especially unique and curated collection. You offer something different that definitely reflects a European aesthetic.
What advice would you give to young people who want to enter the world of costume design?
Everyone I know has taken a different path. There seems to be no one way. But throwing yourself in to any local theatre – learning all aspects of the craft, learning what tools you need to communicate your ideas. Look at those around you who work you admire and study the values in how they work. A huge part of my job is working wth many other people and other departments. Learning how to listen! Listen to your director, your collaborators and always be open to a better idea. Don’t be an island. Always be brave. It’s a process – you are not going to get it all right from the beginning.
Thank you very much for the interview, and see you soon at Theaterkunst!
I love Theaterkunst! I will be back.
